low maintenance stalls

[pam]

I'd like to hear your ideas. I dug out a stall and put in the bottom 1 1/2" rock, then I layered pea gravel over that. I bought these plastic tiles 2 x 2 ft with honeycombed shaped drainage holes. I originally put pea gravel in the tiles, but that was dusty and I thought I'd try something different. Any ideas? The tiles are a great idea for drainage if I can just figure out what to put in them that will allow drainage and not get stuck in their feet. I'm looking for someting small. I saw an ad the other day for Menards selling coco bean shells. I used rice hulls a couple of years ago and loved them, but I can't get them here anymore.
Thanks for your thoughts.

[louis finochio]

Some trainers use newspaper and shavings separate, as it is a low maintence bedding.

[pam]

I've got to admit I've never heard of that before. But, what I'm really interested in is what would work in the tiles, or if anybody has used them. I'm looking for something that would let the wet drain through rather than absorb.

[madelyn]

I would think sand would probably be fine in the tiles.

We pack the base of our stalls with limestone dust which is plentiful and cheap in our area... any stone dust or sand product would be better than gravel because you could pack it down and it would still drain.

[pam]

I originally thought sand too. However, I didn't want to worry about sand collic. Not to mention what was really weird was I was using sand in 2 of my stalls. I have "pits" dug in them and then fill them in with an absorbent. I used sand this last time and the urine just sat on the top! I have yet to figure that one out, other than the local sand must have alot of dirt or something in it to keep it from draining.
I would like to hear more about the lime chips (in KY?). Our lime here will pack down and become as hard as concrete. I had to use a pick ax to break it all out of my stall. It now makes a great driveway to my barn

[madelyn]

We use limestone dust as opposed to garden lime. It is not a powder, it is the consistency of coarse sand. Sounds very much like your sand had too much organic compound in it, causing it to saturate and then repel liquid. I stick to products from the quarry... their dust/sand is just that and only that from the rock crushers, not something that is of unknown origin and could be dried river mud or something.....

[Shammy Davis]

In Joe Taylor's book, (Founder of Taylor Made) he recommends asphalt for heavily used stall floors. I have seen a barn with it and I was impressed. Lightly packed, it is absorbent and easy to clean. Great on hooves too. I'd do it myself, but we only have a two stall barn as all are horses are kept at pasture. Just not economical at this time. For the big barn, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

[Kristie]

If you use asphault, keep in mind you'd need to bed DEEP with shavings or sawdust. It's as hard as cement on legs and they can scrape themselves up pretty good laying down and getting up. I've tried different materials and wouldn't give up my stall mats for anything. I use sawdust as a bedding - about 4" deep. Easy to clean on a daily basis and easy to strip. Unlike shavings, if the sawdust starts to get dusty I can just stir a little water through to keep them semi-moist and absorbent. Wet spots are easy to find and just scoop them out with a flat head spade and never have to touch the surrounding shavings. Twice a year I mop 'em down with a strong nolvalsan solution and I never have a problem with odors and have never had a sick horse.

[Shammy Davis]

Forgive me, but I thought the key word in this thread was "low" maintenance. Kristie's comments about asphalt are not exactly correct. The surface is not compacted like a roadway, but lightly compressed to maintain absorbency while allowing air to circulate thoroughout flooring, sub-surface, and bedding. The surface is generally smooth and to say that it is abrasive is also incorrect. A role in the sand lot is more abrasive than laying down on this surface lightly covered with straw or chips. Further, because the flooring breaths, straw, chips, paper, etc. dry quicker. With the ability to breath and absorb moisture this surface goes a long way to insuring a healthier and safer footing for young and old horses alike. As a farrier and farmer, I can tell you that unsecured rubber mats are very dangerous. Rubber mats, used over loose material or compressed soil come loose and cause footing problems. Further, matting tends to prohibit moisture wicking thus allowing bacteria to breed beneath it. Breeders and consignors like Taylor Made would not be recommending and using something that would harm their investments. Evidence shows up on this everytime TM goes to the sales. Asphalt is not economically feasible for the small barn, but for barns with 5 or more stalls it is worth looking into. Surface life exceeds 5 years and even at that is easily patched. Over the long haul it does prove to be cost effective and very low maintenance cuting mucking time almost in half. Joe Taylor recommends power washing this surface twice a year. I recommend his book to everyone.

[Kristie]

My apologies Shammy. Obviously the barn I was familiar with that had asphault floors must have been incorrectly installed, as it did indeed cause abrasions if not bedded sufficiently with shavings or straw. I installed my rubber mats 7 years ago and have not had any problems with them displacing or having loose edges. They take only minutes to clean Unless I have a stall walker. Scoop the piles, usually about 2 -3 swipes at the wet spot gets all of it, pull fresh shavings over the bare spot and voila, finished. Usually about 1/2 -3/4 muck bucket per stall. I only have to add a wheelbarrow of fresh bedding about every 5 days or so. I HAVE seen barns where the rubber mats were installed incorrectly and did have bedding material caught under them that caused them to be a nightmare to clean and not pleasant footing for the horses. But of the various barns I've worked at and the various stall floorings, I can vouch that mine have taken me a fraction of the time to clean and I use far less bedding material. Considering I'm in my 50's with bad back, chronic tendonitis and all the aches and pains that come from years of physical labors, I can guarantee that this has been the most maintenance free option I've personally had experience with.

[Shammy Davis]

Compacted like road pavement, asphalt would be very hard on a horse and extra bedding would certainly be required for comfort and safety. Properly installed, asphalt is definitely a low maintenance plus for caring for horses. I certainly would be familiar with Joe Taylor's recommendations and book before I'd let anyone install it for me. Your point is well taken.

[louis finochio]

Has anyone ever tried pine needles for bedding? I used them for nesting material when I was a pigeon fancier and the aroma of the pine kept the mites and flys at bay.

Pine needles wont absorb the moisture but if use 50-50 with shavings or straw it will keep the stalls fly free.

[WarHorse]

Never heard of that, Louis. Very interesting!

I've dealt with loose mats. Even when we cut them to fit snugly to the dimensions of the stall, they had to be pulled out occasionally to clean underneath.

Loose-packed asphalt is new to me, but worth a try. I have seen ads for the tiles, but not seen them in action.

Woody Pet is something the show-horse people use. Sort of like dried shavings, they expand as they absorb moisture. I haven't dealt with that, either, but some swear by it.

[madelyn]

I would be EXTREMELY interested in trying the loose asphalt... exactly how is it done??

As for pine needles, The are so flammable as to absolutely terrify me just thinking about them in a barn with electric lights, fans, shod hooves, etc. etc. as spark sources.

[Shammy Davis]

Madelyn: Joe Taylor writes about the installation and care of asphalt barn surfaces in his book. I lost my copy when our farm house burned in 2001 so I can't recall the title. Taylor Made is in KY. Why don't you give them a call. Joe said that he uses the surface at his farm.

Simply, the asphalt is spread loosely on the barn/stall floor and then lightly compacted to secure and smooth the surface. Once, hardened the asphalt has air pockets and openings throughout the thickness of the floor that allows it to breath and drain. I've seen two such installations in VA. They are cost effective and low maintenance. I believe Joe Taylor recommends that you power wash the surface twice a year. Other than that, normal cleanliness suffices. If my operation wasn't 24/7 at pasture, I'd invest in a surface like this. I'm still looking for that foal that pays all the bills. Best wishes as usual.